Well, I would love to tell loads about Tobermory but in the interest of protecting the innocent I think its best to be brief.
I awoke early on the Wednesday morning and went shopping. Noticing the Distillery was open, I popped in and asked about getting Martin and myself to a tasting. The only option was a 10:30 tasting and it was now 10am.
Back at the boat I woke up ‘Sleeping Beauty’ and he complained his ribs were sore but was up for the tasting and off we went. It was a good tasting and we both ended up choosing for the last 4 bottles of the 26yr old with Manzilla finish. At the cash desk my guest insisted on paying and it was very much appreciated.
Whisky taskingWhisky Tasting
We went for lunch at McGochans, met some other folks, went for a tour of Tobermory, as we do, and ended up back in McGochans in the evening. We had a great time.
We ended up staying two night rather than one and Martin’s ribs were even more sore the next morning with some bruising too. We decided to head back to Craobh.
McGochans BeersEmpty GlassesDrinks on Board
We motored down the sound and even got to stretch the sails as we cross Lorne and into Cuan. While we were very early for the tide, we managed in and we tied up safely.
Martin phoned NHS Direct and was told to self care. Weeks later he is still in pain!
In LOTI we had dinner and drinks and found out the Queen had died. We still had a good night and got Martin to his train the next day without further incident.
Martin and I had a great evening in Loch Bay with the music and voices from the pub drifting across to Misha on anchor and a sunset of biblical proportions filling the world with a myriad of vibrant hues. We slept well and awoke refreshed to a generally damp day. We certainly weren’t going to need sunscreen today and we weren’t going to need to reef either.
The St Kilda fast rib which works out the Bay left before us on the 60 mile (2 hour) trip out to the archipelago and went by us as we were weighing anchor. We motored out the Bay a lot slower then they did and headed west across to the south of Isla Island.
We motored through the narrows in very damp conditions and very little wind and rounded Dunvegan Head. There we got a little breeze so up went the full sails and we did make an hour or so under sail before it died again.
Rounding Dunvegan Head Martin spotted some Jetsam on the shore which appeared very interesting but we didn’t have time to go and explore and had to push on.
Rounding Nest Point was the most Westerly of our trip. We were originally planning on another night on Skye or Canna for Tuesday evening but we found out during the day that no one had any Camping Gas available and we were starting to run low and that Cafe Canna was closed on a Tuesday.
Dunvegan HeadDunvegan HeadNess Point
We made the decision to push all the way to Tobermory knowing it would be late by the time we got there. McGochans said they would feed us as long as we were seated by 08:30. It was going to be close but achievable.
Throughout the trip we had multiple dolphin pods zooming and jumping around us but not hanging on to play. After Canna we had a super-pod, perhaps the congregation of the pods we had noticed previously. At one point there were dolphins from the edge of vision one way to the other. They were all leaping and zooming at high speed. We were amongst them for about an hour.
Martin on the HelmDolphins!More DolphinsLoads of Dolphins
South of Canna, we were able to get the sails up again but it was a mixture of sailing at around 4 kn and motor sailing at 6. With a hard stop for dinner in Tobermory we had to make a decent amount of progress or we would miss it.
As the sun dropped we observed multiple cumulous nimbus clouds and could watch them dumping their load in spectacular fashion on the horizon then, as we approached Ardamurchan one decided to get us. For about an hour it was torrential and we could barely make out land as we entered the Sound and motored to Tobermory having lost all out wind as we approached the lighthouse.
Storm Clouds by Mull
In the Sound it was very wet and murky and we could see some spectacular lights ahead. It ended up being one of the huge cruise liners anchored up. She was too big to get in Tobermory Bay and was actually anchored in the Sound.
We berthed perfectly in Tobermory and Martin ran up to grab our table while I finished berthing Misha and sorting everything out. We had dinner, beers, some whisky, rum and coke and then went on a pub crawl to the Tobermory Hotel and the Misha as well.
As we were walking back there was music in the Aros Hall. It was ‘Ally Bain and Friends’ I managed to talk us in for the encore and we were able to hear two songs then wandered back to McGochans Bar and absolute Carnage!
Overnight the wind got up and because of the easterly angle it was banging Misha against the pontoon. I think it was because it was wind over tide plus the angles but it appeared quite violent. I jumped up from bed, popped out and realised that if I put an extra spring on it would likely remove the problem. If that didn’t work it was going to mean having to move her off the pontoon to a mooring or an anchorage. The good news was that it worked and Misha sat still the rest of the night. Except! It’s a busy marine thoroughfare and about hourly a boat would pass through. Their wake would disturbed Misha and in turn disturb Martin and I. Every hour throughout the night I was up for at least half an hour!
The alarm went off at 05:30 but dawn didn’t actually break till close to 06:15. At that time we motored off the pontoon and set foresail to run out in the easterly under the Skye Bridge.
Martin passing under the Skye Bridge
Out in the Sound of Rassay the wind steadily increased amid the rain bucket tied down torrentially. It was like standing under a cold shower. The easterly was up over 25kn and we were powering up the sound. I needed to gibe to head out towards the channel between Raasay and Rona, my gyre went wrong and we were in irons and lost our bottom main button! Live and learn!
Within 15 mins, the weather cleared, the wind died to nothing and we spent the rest of the day under motor.
SkyeSkyeMartin at peak northSea Eagle Waternish Point
After the Rona passage we saw a minke off the coast of Skye, and later after we had turned southbound down the NW corned and Martin had got as far north as he has been we saw a white tailed eagle flying from North Uist to Skye.
We eventually anchored in Loch Bay in 10m (about as deep as Misha can anchor) and put out all 50m of chain.
Ardmore Point ArchDistant sailingPakora & Chips!
Dinner was Chicken Pakora, Onion Bhaji and scalloped potato chips.All afternoon the sun has been roasting us and now the wind has turned from the NE, the anchorage is very calm and we are well fed, well anchored and well knackered!
We lifted the hook at 8am and headed north through Kylereah. I hadn’t told Martin our destination preferring to give him a pleasant surprise when we got to Eileen Donan Castle!
As we approached the Kyle, a large cargo ship started to overtake us so we gave him a quick call on 16 to make sure he was aware of us. It stayed mostly dry which was good as I had a sucker of a hangover from last night’s rums.
We anchored just off the Castle in the firth of River Dornie and I cooked Pasta Bolognaise while Martin got his work finished and we got some cracking photos of the castle when the sky brightened up after lunch.
We then sailed up to the Kyle Pontoons and Martin checked us in. We were parked next to an identical Bavaria 37 but it had the smaller in-mast furling rig. Wandering Angeus was in too and we gave them a wave when they departed.
Kyle Pontoons have deteriorated badly since I was last here. There is no pontoon manager, the place was dirty and unkept. There was no power on the pontoons although there was water available. At £30 without power I felt I was ‘done’. But we needed some shopping and it was good to get a restful afternoon on the pontoon and a wee walk ashore. We stocked up with some fresh foods and topped up the drinks cabinet then
We BBQed burgers for dinner and stuffed our faces before going for a shower. On the pontoons it was really hot in the afternoon sunshine and I was glad fog a shower to freshen up at the end of the day.
Sunset at Kyle of Lochalsh
The sunset wears brilliant with the hills of Skye and the bridge standing out in the setting sun.
I wrote up my log while Martin watched the F1 on deck while watching the sun set in the west.
Over the day we did 25 miles in five hours but about half of that was under power in the morning.
Overnight the gusts didn’t arrive but the rain did. Around 1am the heavens opened and it was as if a waterfall had materialised over the top of the boat. There was this torrential downpour. I don’t know how long it went on for. After it woke me up, I fell back to sleep again and didn’t awake until the morning when it had dried up somewhat.
The hook came up easy and we motored out of the bay around 7am, northbound past Tobermory and round Ardnamurchan. The motor up to the Lighthouse was good in light winds and no gust at all. We had a pod of dolphins come to see us. They didn’t stay and play but just swam around us and headed off. Obviously on a mission.
Not long after that and just sound of Ardnamurchan head at the top of the Sound of Mull, I saw what I thought was seaweed but on closer inspection was a juvenile basking shark. It was less than a meter long and was feeding at the surface. I didn’t get a chance to get a photo of the basking. But I certainly didn’t imagine it as Martin saw it too!
Dolphins
Once we passed the Lighthouse the wind started picking up so we rigged the sails and quenched the engine. Very quickly it was getting ‘sporty’ and the gusts kept increasing. I stuck a single reef in the main. Then a double in the foresail and when she weather cocked for a second time and it was gusting 35 mph we put the second in the main and brought in half the foresail.
I did think about putting into Mallaig instead of pushing for the Sandaig Isles but it was worth it when we got there. We set the hook and had a bottle of Pinot with MacnCheese, baked pepper and cheesy chips. Mr Kean then led me astray with multiple Rum and Cokes resulting in a sore head Sunday morning.
The Saindaig Isles as previously provided a brilliant anchorage so peaceful and tranquil. It was a really good day!
The plan had been to head towards Dublin and hopefully enjoy a few days in the City. The weather obviously didn’t get the memo and conspired against us. As the trip approached the weather did improve. But the forecasts were suggesting gales and near-gales from the east or south east continuously for days on end. The day before it really looked as though we wouldn’t get out at all at the weekend and would have to wait until the worst of the weather passed on Monday.
However on the Friday the 2nd, the forecast improved remarkably and the 45mph gusts reduced under 30 mph and I decided to go for it. But instead of heading south, with days of easterly or south easterlies forecast, I decided up the West Coast would be a far more sensible idea.
I picked Martin Kean up from work in St Enoch Centre in Glasgow and we made good speed up to Craobh Haven arriving at the marina for 14:30. Misha was just about ready to go, and we just needed top top up the water and head out. We were ropes off at 15:15 and out through Cuban Sound at 16:15.
It was a cracking evening with those light easterlies driving us up the Sound of Lorne and into the Sound of Mull. We saw a few seals and at the back of 8pm we dropped anchor in Fishnish Bay just before Salen.
We had covered 29 miles in 5 hours and had sailed all the way. The strong gusts never materialised and it was a really nice, gentle sail into the evening.
Fishnish Bay was a great anchorage protected from the south and the east and we tucked in under a growth of trees in case the gales came, it would have given us some additional protection.
Linda and I went up to the marina on Thursday night and spent Friday working then dinner on Friday night in LOTI. We headed out to Airds Bay (Acharanich Bay) to bob for the weekend in zero wind, 10 miles, 2 hours, all diesel.
Last weekend I had managed to damage the stern shower. For some reason it had stopped working at all by the end of the weekend. I took the opportunity when I had finished work on Friday to spend a little time looking into it. The hatch to access the stern shower is at the rear of the port aft cabin and it requires some obstacle avoidance to squirm through into the stern. As soon as I managed that I could see the problem. It is a flexible plastic hose on the stern shower and it was kinked stopping flow. With Linda on the outside twisting it and me on the inside unkinking it, it was working again in no time. This was important because we were planning on swimming this weekend in Oronsay with Steve!
Cairns Birrell popped by and it was great to see him. We sat around in the heat of the sun drinking coffee, nattering, and generally putting the world to rights! We made commitments to get together over the off-season socially and I am already looking forward to it.
Friday Evening
Misha was all sorted out Friday evening. Linda and I had pasta and insalata caprese on the deck in the evening sunshine and we went up to the bar for a quick nightcap. It was great to see Hannah and Shona working away and to bump separately into Noah and Duncan. We sat out in the beer garden at Lord of the Isles and sipped G&T in the evening warmth.
Steven was driving up from Manchester and we thought we were getting to meet Jacqui too but due to childcare issues Steve arrived by himself at around 10:30. By which time, were were all exhausted but we had an extra nightcap and retired for the night as the sunset bathed Craobh Marina in beautiful light.
Supermoon over CraobhHeron and Sunset
Saturday Morning
Early on there was a mist in the marina but its quickly lifted and was gone when I started making tea and coffee around 07:00. The morning was simply stunning. There wasn’t a breath of breeze and the water was so still you could see the clouds perfectly reflected in the marina. There was a shoal of mackerel swimming around between the boats and there was no more perfect definition of a still summer’s morning.
We left circa 08:35 heading for Port an Tiobairt under diesel. With only the three of us on board this weekend (half of the crew last week) Misha seemed roomy again. While it is a lovely experience to have six folks on board for a special weekend, it is ‘tight’ and she is much more comfortable at 4, or 3, or 2!
Departing CraobhThe diesel jetty from Pontoon ANW from Pontoon A
We motored out of the marina and south-west towards the tip of Jura. It was spring tides. With yesterday’s super-moon these are amongst the biggest of the year with a swing of 4m and the inside of the Corryvreckan was fair shifting as we approached. Although we were heading for the northern tip of Jura, when we got close we were being pushed heavily south east by the inflow through the maelstrom and it was spectacular to see the river of current flowing around us.
We anchored up in Port an Tiobairt and there were only a handful of seals basking on the rocks while we had breakfast of toast, boiled eggs and Italian meats. There were plenty of boats speeding around but very little life other than that handful of seals but as we motored out and headed for the Corryvreckan when the tide had slackened at 11:45 we watched a pair of sea eagles flying from Jura across to Scarba through the deep blue sky.
Port an Tiobairt to Oronsay
Through the Corryvreckan we had hit it perfectly on the very end of the incoming current and we lost one knot as we passed outbound. The channel between Jura and the island Eileen Mor was still fair pumping though and we decided to head around the north of it before setting course for Oronsay.
The good news was that a little bit of breeze had set from the west so were able to rig full sail and give the motor a bit of a rest cruising slowly towards our destination.
Although there was alight breeze it was still very warm and we spent most of the journey topping up liquids and topping up sun creme. Although I hadn’t yet got the dampness smell out of my floppy hat I stuck it on as I didn’t want to burn in the intense sun.
There were many boats moored up in Scalasaig area and, closing on Oronsay, we could see a few masts. There were two anchored up in the Strand and coming through the reefs there were four boats anchored in the Bay. A couple of them were lifting anchor and departing as we arrived.
We set the anchor in 4m with an expected rise of 3m and laid 30m of chain. We made sure it was well in with a good reverse and making sure it was deeply set. With the anchor firm it was time to get into our swimming togs and cool off in the crystal clear water of the bay. One of my favourite features of Misha is the sugar scoop stern which provides a great platform for dangling feet in the water and climbing in and out from a swim.
Swimming and BBQ
Linda is very concerned about cold water shock so insists that I go in slowly and carefully to avoid stress on my overweight heart! But I do as I am told, and slowly lower myself into the water. Blooming heck it was cold! It was colder than loch Spelve last weekend! That said, it might just be the hot air temperature and the contract to the chilly water temperature. My watch was telling me the water temp was 9 Celsius and the air temperature was around 24C.
Linda and I went in first and Steve enjoyed laughing at us panting as the water went over our gonads. I saw down and checked on the anchor but it was truly well set with all three spines deep into the sandy base. Linda did a few laps of Misha, I just swam about and back and forth to the tripping ball.
More yachts came in and anchored up behind us and in the north anchorage while. we were swimming. Further, the two motor boats who had been right in on the beach in front of us departed. The first one went way too fast through the anchored yachts setting a wash against them and I was scared they hadn’t seen us in the water given how close they passed and the speed they went past us! The second one passed much slower and I was grateful.
Steven came in for a dip and Linda climbed out. We swam around the boat again and out to the tripping ball and back then climbed on board. I was able to shower off using the recently repaired stern shower and Linda had a proper warm shower in the Head.
It was a great feeling to be all clean, with core temperature stabilised and a little breeze keeping us refreshed for the remainder of the afternoon. We sat around, enjoying the views, listening to music and sipping on bubbles.
We had our first BBQ on Misha this year cooking Burgers with cheese, pasta caprese, salads and accompaniments. I have to say, I do love a BBQ on the boat and it is certainly one of my ‘happy places’. I really enjoyed dinner and probably ate too much as I didn’t fancy any desert which is most unlike me.
Steve and I went onto Rum and Coke; Cuba Libra, and we stayed on that for the rest of the night. I will be the first to say I drank too much as we sat up late watching the sky for the full-moon and the Perseids meteor shower. We also got to see satellites and someone fall overboard of a yacht in the northern anchorage (all ok, they were laughing).
I have no memory of going to bed, nor most of the natter as the night descended into a rum-soaked, slurred, two man party, Linda having sensibly gone to bed long before Steve and me. We did get some good photographs and we had a good time. My liver, however wishes to lodge a formal complaint!
Sun settingSunsetMoonrise
Sunday back to Craobh
We were up at 07:00 on Sunday morning with tea and coffee made to lift the hook and head back towards Craobh. We wanted to catch the tide through the Corryvreckan and we wanted to get Steve back to Craobh in good time to allow him to travel home safely.
The hook came up easy out of the thick sand and hadn’t moved an inch all night. Linda motored us out of the bay and Steve took over as we travelled between Our and Colonsay north easterly. What little wind there was to be had was bang-on the nose so it was motor all the way back to the Corry.
I cooked us bacon butties for breakfast but we were all a little quieter than usual. Have I mentioned my hangover? I really am not used to drinking too much these days and really need to start acting my age and not my shoe size!
We spotted some debris in the water about 2m off Scalasaig and called it in. It was at East three wooden pallets tied together and floating just at the surface. We called it in to Coastguard as it was enough to damage someone’s hull or prop if they hit it.
Feeding SeabirdsStillness in the Sound
On the way across to Oronsay and on the way back we saw spectacular feeding congregations of seabirds so there was plenty of life below the surface but we were complaining that we hadn’t see the usual dolphins or minkes. We had only just said this when I called for the throttle to be stopped. I spotted a minke about a mile behind us and we sat and watched as the critter made two more breaches travelling towards a feeding congregation in the distance.
As we were approaching the Corry I spotted a pud of dolphins and they came over to see us and spend a few minutes playing in our bow wave. It was commented on that I sang to them. I was always told to sing or white to dolphins as it keeps them entertained and they stay longer. I don’t know if its true or not, juts what I have been told in the past. They did stay and play for a good while although they didn’t seem all that impressed with my off-key singing!
Storm over Jura
Approaching the Corry there was a large thunderstorm over Jura and it was flashing lightening and giving the Island a good rainstorm to boot! It hit us while we came inbound through the maelstrom with the foresail catching the breeze and going 14 knots under sail and current.
We were able to sail all the way back to the bottom of Shuna when the storm passed to the north west and we had to motor again. I quickly prepped the boat for berthing and did a bit of the cleaning in advance of getting in to the Marina.
As we approached the mouth of the Marina, Linda spotted a log in the water right at the entrance. It was about 5 feet long and 4 inches wide. It was a serious bit of wood and enough to do damage to someone’s hull, prop, or rudder so we decided to grab it on our way in. I went onto the sugar scoop, brought it near with the boot hook and then tried to grab it. I don’t know how I did it, but as I brought into onto the boat I pulled a muscle in my chest leaving me quite sore. Once tied up we took it up to the office who identified it as one of the supports they use in the yard for shoring boats on the hard-standing. Someone musty have been playing ‘toss the caber’ into the marina!
Tied up ashore the next rain shower came in and it was torrential soaking us and everyone else. I decided that Misha was getting a natural wash down and didn’t need me to hose her down and concentrated on cleaning inside. I was turning off the engine’s seacock when that chest muscle complained again leaving me flat on the floor and in quite a bit of pain. I also managed to break the door restraint on the port aft cabin door! Guess that is a job for Friday!
Postscript
My chest muscle has quit complaining now. My hangover lasted all Sunday; I gotta learn!
Linda and I had travelled up Thursday night after work and enjoyed our usual arrival dinner in Lord of the Isles. As usual, I had the Crayfish Mac&Cheese and, as usual; I really enjoyed it. The plan for the weekend was to visit Inverlussa Seafood, on Loch Spelve for the annual Clyde Cruising Club Loch Spelve Mussel Muster.
We had never really recovered from the homeward bound journey last week. It was an extra two hours as a result of a serious accident around Tayvalich. Linda had helped with the extra driving but all the same it had taken the last bit of energy out of the two of us and the whole week had been spent trying to ‘catch up’ with ourselves.
It was good to be back on Misha, it was good that she was all clean and tidy and we could literally just jump aboard, make our bed, and that was everything sorted. The two of us slept like logs when back on board and being up in Craobh Marina, plus a good night’s sleep really recovered us from what had been a tough week.
Our Guests
This weekend we were joined by James and Denise who have been before and Jonathan and Shona who were new to Misha. Jonathan had been sailing once or twice before but Shona had never been on a small sailboat and was only convinced to come by the photos of previous trips.
Everyone arrived late Friday night. We met Jonathan and Shona in Lord of the Isles and then retired back to Misha to prepare a supper of baked camembert and fresh crusty bread. It was ready for James and Denise’ arrival and we sat around scoffing and discussing the plan for the weekend at length before I had to admit I was ready for my bed.
We were up bright and early at 07:00. It had rained heavily overnight but had dried up by early morning. There wasn’t an awful lot of preparation to do, but the water needed topped up and James did a great job at that while I prepared some light breakfast for us. We had muesli and yogurt, toast and cheese and cold meats, coffee, tea and orange juice.
Departure
It was bang on 0800 when ropes came off and we motored out of the marina. Sails went up quickly with a double reef in the main and we had a gentle sail across Loch Shuna towards Seil. As we turned up towards Sail, we had harbour porpoise and we had slack water through most of Cuan Sound with only a bit of ‘bumpy water’ at the exit towards Easdale.
The weather was heavily overcast but we had glimpses of sunshine and it was bright enough to keep spirits high. Lets put it this way, I stayed in shorts all day and throughout the evening. The sail was enjoyable and we rotated everyone on and off the wheel, and when I could we had our visitors doing little bits with the rigging.
Shona on the Helm‘Prudential’ London BargeCelebrating our Dip in Loch Spelve
Approaching Loch Spelve it was as busy as I have seen the area. We had a ferry coming out of the Sound of Kerrera, the London Barge; Prudential sailing from the Sound of Mull towards Puldhorain, several pleasure boats and one of the big fish farm vessels; ‘Settler’ coming into the Loch Spelve behind us.
I didn’t want to be slowing up a working boat, so I radioed them and said I would keep out their way and allow them to overtake before the entrance which they did.
Four ‘boys’ in the water.
Loch Spelve
There were already more boats than had booked for the event anchored up in the NW corner of the Loch when we arrived and I carefully surveyed the area and thought there was just enough room for us to safely anchor between two of the vessels and the shore on the south west of the bay. We dropped the hook, tested it and settled in for our afternoon fun.
James, Jonathan and I put on our swimming shorts (well, I did have visitors) and climbed in. We swam around Misha and out to our tripping buoy and back. After the first minute, the water was very comfortable and it was an enjoyable swim in no noticeable current. Linda got a good photo of the three of us relaxing in the water out at our tripping buoy.
Jonathan had brought Misha a bottle of welsh whiskey and when we climbed back on board we had a nip each to warm the cockles and then we had some of Shona’s cake to keep the wolf from the door. The whiskey was very good. There was a distinct apple background and some zesty fruitiness along with noticeable alcohol strength. It is a very accessible whiskey and I was delighted to try it.
We were spoiled rotten with our guests’ gifts as James and Denise had topped up the rum and red wine supply and brought a tray of muffins, donuts, and biscuits too. It was amazing we achieved anything with all the alcohol on board. I have to admit I had to resist the temptation as I was the ferry driver for the excursion ashore. I need to update my ‘joining instructions’ to tell people to stop bringing so many gifts!
The afternoon was very pleasant; we ate, drank and enjoyed ourselves while watching the other members arrive by yacht. It was clear that there were very many more participants than there were registrants as only seven boats were registered for the event (including Clive who had pulled out as he was getting his new hip; get well soon Clive). I was astonished to see some of the anchoring techniques deployed and two boats anchored between Misha and other boats when I believed us only to be at a safe distance when we anchored there. One chap anchored practically on our tripping buoy and appeared only to put out a very short rode. I was very grateful that the conditions overnight were genteel.
Mid afternoon Geoff arrived in ‘Contender’ and there were a few other boats we recognised from Craobh Marina or our travels and at 17:00 I started ferrying out team across to the event. Because our dingy is only small it takes a maximum of three people. James commented it was like the puzzle of ferrying the carrots, the bunny and the fox across the river. But we got everyone there without any incident. Jonathan and Shona went first, then James and Denise and finally Linda and our Picnic box.
Clyde Cruising Club Mussel Muster on Loch Spelve
The event description had suggested BYOB so we brought some red wine, some Diet Coke and our own reusable glasses to avoid single use items. When we arrived there was a table full of wine, huge pans full of mussels and BBQs stocked with burgers. James was very grateful of the burgers cooked by Geoff as he is allergic to seafood but the rest of us dug in and enjoyed mussels.
I have to say they were the best mussels I have ever had and Inverlussa Seafood did us proud. They explained that they have an honesty box where yachts can come ashore and buy mussels even when they aren’t around and we will certainly pop back for some in the future. By far the freshest ever, and certainly the tastiest too.
Inverlussa SeafoodGeoff thanking our HostsGeese flying by the fleet
We met some interesting people and enjoyed the event. It was great to meet the owners of Inverlussa Seafood, and hear how they use single lines that can be up to 12km long to grow the mussels for up to three years before harvesting and how the conditions in the Loch are carefully managed to remain ideal for the cultivation of the harvest.
We headed back to Misha and I did the ferry runs in reverse order. Into the wind and fully laden I managed to get quite wet on my shorts but otherwise the journey was uneventful. I should have taken Linda back first rather than last, but that’s a lesson for future similar exercises. We left the dingy in overnight but popped the outboard safe away.
Downstairs we enjoyed cake and wine. My ferryman duties over, I shared a glass of Prosecco and then a cracking Cuba Libra before retiring to bed at the back of eleven. We never did get out the games we bought for Misha but we had a great evening anyway.
Sunday Morning
On Saturday Afternoon we had debated the plan for the departure. The options were:
Tacking back to CH
Long lie, more swimming, late brunch, 1400 departure from the Loch and directly back to Craobh for at 17:00 departure from there to home, or
Early breakfast, out the Loch before 8am, and a more meandering sail back to Craobh.
We democratically chose the early departure and coffee was served at 0700 and we were out the Loch by 0800 as planned. Linda was the first girl up, followed by Shona and then Denise. It was a damp morning with showers sweeping over us and low, deep cloud with only occasional glimpses of blue.
James and Jonathan helped us getting the anchor up and everything sorted to motor out of the Loch. The rust on my anchor chain is now causing it to jam, so I must get round to that new chain I have been promising myself.
Once out of the Loch we raised sails with a single reef and made good pace. I made bacon butties but it was a bit bouncy and I am not certain the crew enjoyed them. Between the five of them they drank enough tea and coffee and we finished most of the cake, leaving only enough for Linda’s post-yoga snack on Monday evening. The wind was more southerly than forecast and we had to work to make it south. We debated going round the Garvellachs but folks were cold and damp and it was decided to head in through Cuan at 11:00 then circumnavigate Shuna instead.
Our trip in through Cuan was bang on slack water and pleasant and pretty. Once ‘inside’ the barrier of Seil, Torsa, Luing, Scarba, (and Jura) the water was calm, the breezes were light and everyone who wanted to had more time steering and playing with sails.
Denise happed up against the cold and wetA passing pufferPleasant inside sailing
My laziness of not trimming the spare reefing lines caught up with me on the gybe at the south of Shuna when they caught on the binnacle but James who was on the wheel handled it perfectly and no damage was done. I have to stop being lazy about such things!
Once we made our turn successfully, I prepared the yacht for berthing while James helmed and it was a good docking into Craobh.
James filled the tanks once more and he and I cleaned outside while Linda, Shona and Denise sorted inside and Jonathan ferried kit up and down to the cars. Linda cleaned the front head while I cleaned the Saloon head and the Galley and we all packed up and headed home. I even found my wallet which had fallen down by the Navigation Station.
A successful weekend of 59 miles over 9 hours sailing. The fullest Misha has ever been for a sail and overnight and everyone appeared to enjoy themselves. Misha is all clean and ready for her next adventure.
Linda and I arrived at Misha on Thursday evening quite early-ish. The cake and things we had left on board a couple of weeks ago looked remarkably intact but went straight in the bin and we set up our bed then went over to Lord of the Isles for dinner. Funnily enough, I ordered the Crayfish Mac’n’Cheese which has become my firm favourite. We bumped into Barry and enjoyed the pleasure of his company before we ate. The main plan for this weekend’s sailing was to avoid West Highland Yachting Week wherever possible.
Although I am not drinking much at the moment I enjoyed a glass of Gavi with my meal and washed it down with some Diet Coke. The evening had a spectacular sunset not long after an outrageous but short-lived downpour. Good Scottish Weather, ‘if you don’t like it, wait 15 mins and it will change.
Thursday Sunset 3Thursday Sunset 2Thursday Sunset
We went back to the boat feeling tired and satiated and slept very well. Overnight there were a couple of rain storms that passed over and we enjoyed that lovely feeling of being warm and dry, while outside it is horrible.
Friday was a working day for both of us, so after some tea and coffee we both went on separate Teams calls for most of the morning. At Lunchtime I popped through to Lucy’s in Ardfern. There I picked up some of their awesome sausage rolls. We prefer the scones at Ardfern Village Store. So I visited there too and picked up some scones and some fresh raspberries.
For lunch Linda and I split a sausage roll and crisps. Not the healthiest of options but it was yummy and kept us going. I then had another call from 13:00 that was scheduled for a couple of hours. It finished early allowing me to make up the guest cabins before our pals arrived later in the evening.
I ended up having to take another call about some WiFi challenges being faced by one of my favourite clients. Amusingly, they are actually my client’s, client’s client. But all the same a 45 minute call and some notes seemed to keep the wolf from their door and get them smiling again.
Somewhere around 7pm Gavin, Lucy and Angus popped by, bringing with them a lovely bottle of white wine. I had a lesser quality bottle pre-chilled and had I realised how good the one they had brought us was, I would have been embarrassed to serve them what I did. Gavin and his family are heading out on Merganser to keep one stop ahead of WHYW (West Highland Yachting Week). Our sail was also planned, as much as possible, to avoid the fleet. We all had a lovely natter and they headed off to watch the last edition of Neighbours.
At just the same time as Gavin’s family departed Misha, our guests for the weekend arrived. Andrea was in the Port Aft Cabin and James and Kasia were in the Starboard Aft Cabin. We got everyone settled and I served a supper of cold meats, cheeses and biscuits while briefing everyone on the boat and the plan for the weekend.
Now, I have been body swerving booze much of the time, and did so on Friday night. I drink non alcoholic Gin and Tonics or Non Alcoholic Rum and Coke. However, Linda and our guests enjoyed a glass or two of wine with the snacks and before long it was 1am and I was falling asleep at the table. It was an enjoyable catch up with our friends but by the end of the night I could barely find my way to the cabin I was so tired.
I awoke around 6am (half an hour later than I usually awake) quite refreshed. The rain was hammering down outside and XC Weather was telling me it wasn’t going to clear till nearly lunchtime. I had given everyone a breakfast time of 9am with a ‘ropes off’ of 10am. So, I lay in bed listening to a novel on my earphones until around 8am when I got up and started prepping breakfast. We had toast and bacon inside and filled up the water before we headed off, in full wet weather gear, at 10am.
We departed the marina and headed south passing to the east of Shuna and Luing down towards Port an Tiobairt. As we were approaching, Barry was bringing Jenny Wren into the Bay with a tour group to see the seal colony.
I anchored (badly) in the middle of the bay, and when the current died down and the wind picked up, I was only a couple of feet away from the west reef that sticks some way out into the wider Bay. I had to lift and reset further to the East and felt a right numpty in front of my guests but also in front of Barry and his group making a rookie mistake.
We stayed for about 45 minutes watching the seals, had tea and biscuits and enjoyed a rest before we lifted anchor (again) and headed north for the Gulf of the Corryvreckan. Barry and Jenny Wren had already departed when we hauled the hook and we hugged the Jura coast into the Corry before setting a bit more northbound. The weather was certainly improving, drying up and brightening up too.
We had to motor through the passage but we were able to sail again as soon as we turned more northerly and were making a very comfortable 5kn over most of the journey. Misha passed to the East of the Garvellachs then passed west of Insch Island and Kerrerra. There were loads of boats out on the water from sailing dingy, through pleasure sloops and other configurations all the way up to big fish farm vessels and the ferries. It was a busy day in the Sound of Lorne.
Andrea at the wheel, Linda observing Traffic in the Sound or LorneBarry & Jenny Wren
Our plan had us anchoring in Camas Nathais which is north of Oban, west of the airport, and south Eriska. Its a pleasant horseshoe bay protected from all but southerlies. The forecast was to be westerly backing northerly but there was still a tad of southerly swell entering the Bay and I did wonder how comfortable it was going to be. But anchored up we could see the swell reducing and by the time dinner was served on deck it was barely noticeable.
We sat in late afternoon sunlight on deck and enjoyed Lucys sausage rolls, boiled potatoes and ‘insalata caprese’. This time served with some lovely Moet James and Kasia had brought along everyone was more abstemious this evening. We had seals all around us, swimming and fishing, and popping by to check what we were up to. There were no sea eagles as there had been my previous time in the Bay but it was a very pleasant evening anchor and we listened to music for a good while outside before retiring inside and playing cards for a while. We ate some lovely snacks that Andrea had brought along but we never dipped into the pink gin; that will have to remain for her next visit.
Everyone seemed tired after a day sailing and in the sunshine. Although no one appeared as tired as me! And I called ‘Bed’ first around 10pm. I slept really well overnight. Awaking only once at 3am when a large ship sent a goodly wash into the bay.
The morning was blue and bright and already pleasantly warm for breakfast at 07:15 on deck. I cooked some bacon for sandwiches, but also there was muesli, yoghurt and berries and lashings of OJ, tea and coffee. We had a strict 0800 anchor up to ensure passage through Cuan so it was a quick breakfast, then up with he hook and southbound we went.
James was on the helm most of the day and we entered Oban Bay planning on skirting the island and popping across to the Kerrera side and tracking in. As there was a yacht coming towards us we crossed behind diagonally in the absence of any other traffic. The light winds and requirement to have engine running meant we motor sailed to Heather Island then bay on the flappy white things all the way down past East End and out towards Pullobraihn.
We travelled across from Kerrera to Insch Island in bright sunshine making 5kn under sail all the way but turning east, south of Easdale, the wind died away to nothing and we had to rely on the Iron Sails to get us into Sound of Cuan. It spat us through rather efficiently and we popped out the other end just in time to unfurl the Genoa and sail into Loch Shuna under foresail alone.
The loch was full of jostling racing yachts and we did our best to keep out of their way. Andrea was on the helm. We travelled east along the top of the loch as though we were going to Melford then only turning south for Craobh outside their course, and when there was a gap in the flow of racers.
It was beautifully warm with blue skies and it was a pleasant motor into the marina to tie up. Once berthed Linda provided a lunch and I started the cleaning. We had a cracking weekend!
67 Miles over two days. Getting home was rather less fun. Linda and I got stuck behind an accident at Taynuilt that ended up with a road closure and us having to backtrack to Connell, head to Ballahullish and then drive through Glen Coe on the way home. It was a beautiful road trip but the extra 90 mins meant we were both exhausted.