The weather forecasts were suggesting a ‘weather bomb’ with 30mbar drop in an hour and gale force winds twice in twelve hours. We decided to head into Tobermory and sit it out there. It was interesting, there were changes to the forecast every half hour all day but consistently there were gales coming through from the East. They didn’t happen but we had fun on Tobermory.
We bought whisky. In Mishnish we met the same Doncastrian couple that Martin and I chatted with last September. We ate at Cafe Fish. Linda had Halibut, I had seafood Mac n Cheese. We then went back to McGochans for one and bumped into Kirsty and Chris again.
Then we had a really good night’s sleep. The gales never really materialised. It got up to mid-20s only.
We had a fun time in Mallaig and enjoyed ourselves. On Easter Monday at around 08:30 we headed out of the harbour and sailed west towards Rum past the southern headland of Skye. It was pretty blowy with gust over 30mph and a weird cross chop that seemed to be coming from everywhere!
The sail over was uneventful and reasonably fun. It stayed dryer than we expected and we were over on Rum in a straight line in 2.5 hours.
We took one of the new visitor’s moorings provided by Rum Bunkhouse. They are big yellow buoys with heavy gauge pick up lines and gave us an excellent night’s sleep.
Late on, another yacht came in, then two MOWI boats moored up in the north of the bay.
After Easter Sunday off we were up for another sail. The whole of Sunday the weather forecast had been changing with storms moving around, disappearing and popping up. When we planned on Sunday night a sail across to Isle of Rum would be wet but 12-17 mile an hour winds from the south-west.
On Monday morning, it was then forecasting 15-22 mph winds from the south Bering south west around 11-12 noon.
The actual was a base wind around 20 mph with gists all the way up to 32 mph and 35 while we were mooring up.
The sail was a bit rough but we had rigged with a double reef in the main and an extra reefed foresail so it was under control the whole way but we did have waves coming over the bow and foredeck and even significant waves splashing into the cockpit.
The moorings at Kinloch are great; big yellow hippos with stout strops and pick-up buoys. As the wind picked up I managed to loose the blue boathook over the side. I had the rope-chain-rope prepared but we didn’t need it as the strop was so good. Tied up we went inside and had soup for brunch.
There is a reason I prefer anchoring to mooring in Misha. There is no way to remove the anchor from the bow stem and the mooring strop always knocks against the anchor when the wind gets up. I have roped the mooring strop to the bow stem to reduce swinging but the anchor banging is annoying.
Saturday 8th April we woke up with the alarm at 05:30 and were off the pontoon with the navigation lights pre-dawn at 06;00.
Off the pontoon we stowed the dock-gear then raised sail with a single reef.
The dawn was just starting to lighten the north eastern sky as we sailed out of the bay and Ambience cruise liner motored towards us passing the Tobermory lighthouse.
With the sun peaking over the hills of Ardnamirchan and Morvern we sailed out of the north of the sound into an increasing wind. Before we got to the Ardnamurchan Lighthouse we were on a double reefed main with an extra reefed foresail and still showing in excess of 9 knots over ground as we passed Santa Bay.
It was described as a bit of a sleigh ride as we flew northbound and passing Bo Faskdale we had consistent speed in excess of 8 knots.
We made it all the way into Mallaig under wind and in the whole day had used less than 30 mins of engine time.
We arrived in Mallaig at 11am and went shopping at the German Bakery, the pharmacy and the Coop (again t=for things we had forgotten)!
There was a large seal who was being fed by the fisherman from Girl Aimee and she posed for photographs afterwards. Her name is Annabelle!
Annabelle the Mallaig harbour seal.Pizza!
Dinner was pizzas from the Old Pier Bakehouse and they were great. Linda had goats cheese and I had venison pizza; a first for me. The pizzas were really great and we were soon in bed.
Sunbathing with BooksMisha in Mallaig
Easter Sunday was forecast to be wet with high winds all day so we had a day in Port. Of course it was dry, blue skied, and the winds didn’t turn up till very late in the afternoon.
We had showers in the marine centre and they were great. Only problem was the temperature of the water was too hot!
We had Charlie Bingham,’s Thai Green Chicken Curry for dinner and then went for an after dinner walk in the pleasant evening with only a light blow happening finding the Clachaign Inn at the hill very accommodating. We would certainly try the food there in the future.
Thursday 6th April we drove up to the boat once we finished work arriving around 6pm. It was good to see lots of folks around again and best of all; Lord of the Isles was open and serving food.
We were booked in for dinner and saw Duncan and Cairns as we went in, Barry and Kerry-ann were inside and we met Paul the barman for the first time.
We ordered steaks and they were great. The two of us were exhausted so it was back to the boat and into bed long before the pub closed!
Friday 7th was a beautiful morning with blue sky and light winds. It was a tad chilly overnight but we were nice and warm and comfortable with the heater on overnight. At one point I got too hot so powered it down. That inspired complaints in the morning!
We did the jobs we needed to do once we were up and topped up the water and the diesel before heading out towards Tobermory at 10:30.
We motored out and set full-sail. Through Cuan and up the Lynne Of Lorne the wind was low but enough to keep up moving in blue skies and calm waters. A ketch took up position just ahead of us as we passed Insh Island. It was still just ahead of us as we turned into Tobermory. We sailed over half of the way and motor-sailed the rest.
We arrived into Tobermory at 17:15 and moored up nice and easy with he help of another boater. A quick shop at the CoOp to pick up a few of the things we had forgotten and then we had dinner in McGochans before an early night again on Misha.
It was Wet Wet Wet as I left Ardfern on Saturday morning. There was a heavy mist and torrential rain. I couldn’t see the breakwater from the berth. There was a centimetre of water int he bottom of the cockpit, and it drains directly to the back!
I had a great evening in Ardfern, dinner at Galley of Lorne was tasty. I had chowder, then fried fish. When last I ate there in 2019 it was less than ideal but the quality of the food was very good and I had a pleasant meal. I met the folks who bought Corrie House with their cute spaniels and spoke with the staff and some local folks too.
Lucy’s was doing takeaway on the Friday night and I saw some folks eating the pizzas and they too looked ideal. Must keep that in mind for future visits.
Back to the boat and I slept like a log! I awake a couple of times to the geese on the breakwater island having a gas. But got a good 10 hour sleep and felt good for it Saturday morning.
The Boat Jumble was busy, but wet. I didn’t stay long and decided just to sail back to Croabh. Well, that isn’t totally true. On departure my plan was to sail for Torsa and anchor there overnight but that changed not long after departure.
I shortened and prepped and was ready for departure just before 11am. I had worn my storm suit up to the boat jumble, yes, it was that wet. So I only had to change my shoes to my sailing wellies once on board, shorten lines, detach electricity and run departure checks before I could set off.
The wind was light from the East North East and the departure an easy one. I radioed Ardfern and thanked them for the hospitality as I departed the pontoons. Motoring out from the pontoons I raised sail and was making 7 knots down the Loch before I got tot he entrance to the Lagoon.
But by heck, it was wet! Did I mention that?
There was very little to see through the rain and mist but I was fair moving and very quickly realised I needed to shorten sail again. So I popped in a single reef on the main and a double on the foresail and that seemed to balance her for the gusts but left her a little underpowered on the static wind. But I never dropped below 6 knots the whole trip, so cannot complain at all.
The wind forecast had been for 6-12 mph. The lowest I remember seeing on the way down the Loch was 12 and the highest gust was 18mph. As I approached Dorus Mor, the tide picked up and I did 9.5 knots through the passage and was spat out northbound.
Almost as soon as I was through there was a significant lull in the wind and in associated increase in the rain. We are now talking torrential downpour! So I popped the washboard in to keep the cabin dry (more open why that didn’t work later) and started heading north at 4.5 knots.
Within fifteen minutes I was flying again at over 7 knots with a 22 mph westerly driving me on a near perfect reach northbound towards Croabh. With the low visibility and the rain forecast to continue well into the night I perceived anchoring at Torsa to be useless; I wouldn’t get to see anything. So I rerouted for Craobh. I had two plans now for getting into Croabh.
I needed diesel anyway so I would go alongside the diesel jetty, get filled up and then ask for help with lines into my berth, or
Go nose into my berth directly.
The sail up was fine. It was fast moving and the only thing I actually saw was the wee white and blue creel fisherman who I spotted about 50m off my bow and sailed around. Before I got to the island under sail I had dropped the main and was fore reaching on a single reefed foresail and still getting in excess of 6 knots. I had also set out the fenders and the rear fender, so all I had to do was lines and that was me.
Visibility cleared the further north I travelled and even the rain seemed to go down to just a rain storm.
As I passed the island I rolled in the foresail and then under motor alone, set the lines. Out of habit I set them for a stern in port berthing although I was thinking it would probably be bow in. All the same she was set to both sides just in case.
Dorus MorWet in the Dorus MorPassing Airds BayStern-in in Croabh
As I motored into the marina, the big blur catamaran as on the diesel pontoon and didn’t look as though they would be moving soon. In fact I couldn’t see anyone aboard. I was getting prepped for a bow in berthing when the gust died away totally and I was seeing 4 mph breeze from the west which is ideal for berthing. It is always a bit tighter when the catamaran is on the diesel berth but I prepped it knowing I could go right out again if a gust hit me but, first time, I was on the pontoon, stern in, and safely tied in one.
I left Craobh Haven at 12:40 having filled the water and loaded Misha for the first single handed trip of 2023. I will happily admit that I am always nervous before I take Misha out by myself but that is overwhelmed as soon as I am out of the Marina, the sails are up, the engine off and we are riding the wind.
It wasn’t a big sail; 14 miles from Croabh Haven to Ardfern in just less than two hours. It was into the wind on the way south and then across the wind in a fast reach up from the Dorus Mor to Ardfern Yacht Centre. Averaging over 7 knots the whole way and topping out at 9kn just before entering the Dorus Mor is was a short, fast sail and I really felt as though I was starting my checks for berthing not too long after I had stowed all the berthing gear form leaving Croabh.
I had called Ardfern in advance and booked a berth for Misha. I was to call on 80 when I got here. The chap who answered the radio knew I was single handed and allocated me a large easy berth for getting in and out and I was awfully grateful. It was an east berthing and Misha is all tied up and snoring happily now.
Dinner tonight is at the Galley of Lorne. I haven’t been in there since 2019 but am looking forward to not cooking. In the morning I plan on visiting the Boat Jumble at Craignish Village Hall.
Shooting south into a light breeze.Single handed for the first time win 2023Forecast said 6mph, gusting 12!Approaching the Dorus Mor.Passing the Corryvreckan southbound on the inside.Speed baby! Speed.
Sunday saw us returning to Craobh after a three day weekend visiting firstly Tobermory and then Kerrera Marina. Throughout the weather has been chilly but crisp and frosty adding to the whole experience. Truly Linda hasn’t done much in the way of Winter sailing often preferring to send me off on my own to enjoy the experience. However on this occasion it was me who debated it and Linda who urged me to jump at the last minute opportunity that availed itself to get away from a few days.
After yesterday’s Christmas Craft Faire at Kerrera Marine, we awoke early and made coffee and tea before casting off at the first light of dawn. There was barely a puff of wind and I had to realise that I would be spending the morning on motor and with not much time to spare to get to Cuan before the current turned against us.
Motoring down the Sound the vistas were stunning. Thick frosts gripped the land and the sun rose slowly in the East. There were sleepy seabirds sitting on posts and buoys and we travelled down at 6 knots keeping as quiet as a diesel allows to avoid breaking the peace of the Sunday morning.
There was only the Kerrera ferry moving around us and the odd car driving on the mainland shore. As the sun peeked over the hills and lit the place up, it was very beautiful and the scale of the horizon as we came out from the Sound into the Lynne of Lorne took our breaths away. As did the cold, air temps of -3C.
A fishing boat was heading north from Easdale as we headed south and the lens effect was causing the Garbhellachs to float on the horizon. We could see for miles, right over the horizon! We could see Colonsay and the west end of Mull, the Torran Rocks. The Sound of Mull was crystal clear as were the lighthouses. That crisp clear ‘CAVOK’ visibility, plus lens effect at the surface gave us that unique high pressure winter experience.
Turning towards Cuan and heading in we ended up with some current urging us on and we managed 9 knots through the narrows with plenty of seabirds around to keep us company. Turning into Seil Sound there were two White Tailed Sea Eagles who were initially disturbed by our proximity before settling on an outcrop and posing for photos as we passed.
Arriving in Craobh it was even colder than it had been at Kerrera with an air temp on Misha showing -4C as we arrived at the Marina. The other yachts on our pontoon still had thick frost on their decks but it dispersed quickly as the sun hit.
We had an amazing winter weekend, I think the bester ever for the two of us. Misha is safely tied up now and we hope to be back on board not long after Christmas for the last and first sails of 2022 and 2023 respectively!
Our plan for Saturday was to sail to Kerrera for the Christmas Craft Faire. However before that we needed to head our on Friday night for a Pub Crawl in Tobermory. We had a great dinner in MacGochans, enjoying a chat with Kirsty. Following which we wandered along to the Mish for a couple and met a lovely chap; Leon who tried to buy us Pizza. It was very much appreciated but we were full.
I started there with a 17yr old Tobermory then had a Rum & Coke before we moved on to the Tobermory Hotel. There Linda had cocktail and I had a Diet Coke (so I could keep going a while).
After that we headed back to MacGochans bar and enjoyed a couple of nice whiskys including a 17 yr old and a 23 yr old. We had a great night and really enjoyed the Pub Crawl meeting lots of great folks as we did.
Saturday morning we awoke before dawn and headed out leaving the marina around 08:50 heading 00south down the Sound. The wind was a bit fickle and it was 50/50 motor sailing and sailing but we got a brilliant sail from Duart across to Oban Bay in 20+ knots of wind.
It didn’t feel as cold as Friday but it must have been. At 9am I poured myself a cup of Diet Coke and by 09:10 the drink was frozen!
We arrived into Kerrera Marina at 13:00. Of course at that moment the gusts were around 25 knots and there was no way I could get Misha to stern tie so we ended up being bow in and were very grateful to one of the chaps from the Marina who came to catch lines.
Kerrera were hosting a Christmas Craft Faire so we had Stollen Donuts followed by Roast Meet with Pepper Sauce rolls and chips. The craft faire had loads of interesting things and I had to work hard not to buy lots of shiny things for Misha. There was an enamel painting of a marine scene with ducks legs at the top, sharks, then fish, then octopus tentacles at the bottom that would certainly have been coming home with us were it not already sold.
An early night followed and it was very comfortable and Gill and Tim are always the best hosts.
We arrived at Craobh Haven late Thursday evening. The plan was just to use the boat as an office this weekend and at least have a change of scenery. However as we drove up the road on Thursday afternoon I received a call to let me know the testing I was due to oversee had been put back to next year now so I have a free weekend.
The air temperature was around -4C when we arrived at the marina and the temperature inside Misha was 7C we slammed on the heaters and set about getting ourselves comfortable.
With the diesel and electric heater on and a steak pie in the oven it wasn’t long till the jackets came off, the wine was opened and we could relax in warmth and comfort.
There was a beautiful full winter moon sitting over the marina and with the frost on the pontoons it was great to be snuggled up safe and warm inside.
Full moon in Craobh
We slept like logs and I had to extract Linda from her duvet at 08:15 through bribery of bed-tea. We decided against breakfast but did what we needed to prepare Misha to head out; topped up water, stowed everything securely, etc.
The morning was bright and crisp and warmer than the night before. The moon was sitting clear in the west and the sunrise was brilliant.
Out through Cuan, I had forgotten to take off ‘British Summertime’ setting on the tide app, so Linda could have had an extra hour in bed. As it was we managed to navigate through Cuan against a knot of tide and head out towards Easdale.
It was beautifully crisp and blue and winter sailing at its best. At Insh Island we saw another yacht heading south under full sail but that was the only other pleasure boat we saw all day. We had a mid-morning snack of bacon butties, and coffee and tea on the hour every hour.
As we approached the Sound of Mull we had two ferries, two workboats, and two cargo ships all congregating together around Duart Bay. Then two sets of two Eurofighters Typhoons flew down the Sound at about 300ft. It was thrilling.
There were a few flakes of snow just around Lochaline so I changed from my warmth outers to my waterproofs but it came to nothing and I was warm enough in my waterproofs.
We had the usual debate about going in via Aros Bay or going round Calve Island and we went around Calve island. I started rigging the mooring lines and setting the fenders as we entered the Bay and we radioed Tobermory Harbour to confirm permissions receiving a lovely welcome in reply from Joe.
With our navigation light on, as it was already getting dark we motored in through the new fairway and got Misha settled snugly into a berth for the night. Next bit was warm up the boat. She was down at 7C as we had sailed up the Sound but she quickly warmed up and we headed out for dinner in Tobermory.
